[Read about our travels in other years]

Friday January 14th, 2005
Visiting Dear Ones in Juneau, AK

A busy holiday time, with plenty of grand parenting to do. We love the community feeling in Juneau, and have had a hectic social life. The first week here was solid rain, then it turned cold and snowed. Since then it's been cold and mostly sunny. One of us slipped on the ice and needed 8 staples in her head to staunch the bleeding. Two head bashings on one year--must be a slow learner. Immediately we bought Yaktrax -- chains for shoes. Phenomenally helpful. Enjoyed a 3-generation Polar Dip in the icy waters on New Years Day. Very brisk and invigorating. Awed every day by the spectacular scenery, took many enjoyable dog walks, including along the mouth of the beautiful Eagle River. Watched kids/grandkids skate in the shadow of Mt. Juneau. Ate a couple of lunches at "the Pel Meni place", in the blue wharf side building--only things it sells are pel meni, delicious little Russian meat-filled dumplings. Going like gangbusters selling take-out orders until 3:00am. A not-to-be-missed Juneau treat. Friday we enjoyed a memorable presentation of "A Midsummer Night's Dream" at Juneau's fabulous Perseverance Theater--another not-to-be-missed Juneau treat. Sunday, one of us went skiing (downhill) in heavy snow at Eaglecrest on Douglas Island with kids/grandkids and, hey presto, discovered that after a 20+year hiatus she still knew how. Monday, we leave early to fly back to Washington, DC.

 

Tuesday, January 25, 2005
Visiting Dear Ones in Washington, DC

We have been seriously reminded how much we don't miss snow shoveling. Our flight just made it out of Juneau last Monday last thing before everything shut down due to the poor visibility and continued heavy snow. Uneventful flights brought us to DC, where the lovely balmy weather of the previous week had completely evaporated. We defeated the colds we picked up in Juneau, shoveled yet more snow, and enjoyed visiting our many dear ones in this area. Also, volunteered another day for Covenant House, bought a few books (surprise), read in front of nice warm fire, and made some progress on the web site update. Tomorrow we head back to Charleston, SC, to be reunited with our darling Clementine. Much as we have basked warmly in the company of our family and friends, we are more than ready to be back on the road--and hopefully with some more clement weather. It's been a frigid week.

 

Thursday, January 27, 2005
at Oak Plantation Campground, Charleston, SC

Uneventful flight to Charleston yesterday from DC. Recovered Clemmie from the storage area--engine started without missing a beat--and moved ourselves into a comfortable campsite. Level concrete slab, electricity, water and sewer at hand. Tall trees and hundreds (it seemed) of noisy robins. Great shower and laundry facilities. A nice balmy 60 degrees. Unpacked, then rode our bikes to Gilligan's restaurant nearby and ate afternoon meal. Left most of the de-winterizing until today. This morning we began going through all the systems. Everything working, except usual plumbing snafus. Water filter under the sink is poorly designed (or maybe it's us) -- oops, water all over the floor. Same mistake as when winterizing. Let's not do that again. Battened down for a cold night, temperature forecast to be in high 20's. Tomorrow we'll head for Raleigh to see Craig and Sarah in their new digs, and pick up some book packages we had mailed to them.

 

Saturday, January 29, 2005
in Myrtle Beach State Park, Myrtle Beach, SC

Yesterday morning the forecast for Raleigh is a winter storm. Decided to postpone trip for a couple of days and go somewhere a bit more clement. Selected Myrtle Beach for its reputed-to-be-lovely state park. On final check before decamping, found the stem for the faucet to the outside shower is leaking, needs to be replaced. Filled up the propane tank, provisioned, and headed along Rte 17 north along the coast. Found RV dealer in Myrtle Beach (Camping Country) to do the plumbing repair, which they accomplished by replacing the faucet in short order, and under warranty. Passed a number of huge lots filled with RV's on the way--more than we've so far seen anywhere.

Arrived in the State Park at 4:00pm, and went to assigned campsite. 121 miles today. Only a few other hardy souls here. Very pretty area, a pleasant natural oasis among all the Grand Strand resort accoutrements. But it's COLD! Thankfully our heating systems keep us toasty warm and snug. This morning, found numerous big fat cardinals tamely strutting around outside. Started chili fixings in the crockpot. Happily combed through our resources to begin planning what to see and where to go in Florida. Much more than we thought. Happy as pigs in shi... Went for a pleasant if chilly bike ride to the other end of the state park--legs ecstatic to be reunited with bikes. Walked along the beach to the empty fishing pier, and along it's length. A flock of fluffed-up rock doves in all their variation eyed us from the rail. Watched a pair of pelicans cruised along the surf in search of lunch. Icy raindrops chased us indoors for the afternoon, which we spent reading or reorganizing and weeding some of the stowage. We don't need all the spares and supplies we carried over from Callipygia. Hard to internalize that if we need something we're rarely more than an hour or so from a store.

 

Tuesday, February 1, 2005
Parked at Craig and Sarah's in Raleigh, NC

Made a leisurely drive from Myrtle Beach to Raleigh on Sunday, arriving here about 4 pm after a 214-mile trip. Nice to meet up with Craig again and see them settled into their new digs. Collected our book packages. Yesterday and today, continued the reorganizing and weeding and prepared for our trip south. Did some errands and provisioning, and gave the bikes a tune up, courtesy of All Star Bikes which we found a handy ½-mile bike ride from Craig's house. Tomorrow, we'll get Clemmie serviced and then head to I-95 to travel through South Carolina, Georgia, and through Florida to the Everglades, our next and (we hope finally) warmer destination.

 

Friday, February 4, 2005
in Flamingo Campground, Everglades National Park, FL

Enjoyed our time in Raleigh, even if it did frost at night. Left early Wednesday morning and went to College Park RV's, to get the engine oil changed, then to Brakes, Inc., a block away, to check wheels and tires and adjust the alignment. Enjoyed watching a cooking show on TV while waiting and picked up a few tips. We're loving Clemmie's kitchen, being able to shop when we need, find (usually) necessary ingredients, and make old favorite recipes--albeit in smaller quantities. Filled the fuel tank and left Raleigh shortly after 11:00 am. Drove south on I-40 to I-95, and followed it south into Georgia. Made a couple of fuel and lunch break stops, and to change drivers. Our general practice is 100 miles or 2 hours, whichever comes first. Big road trips are much more enjoyable now, in the comfort of our own home. At 7:45pm pulled over for the night at an RV-friendly truck stop (Flying J) near Brunswick. GA. Very convenient, lulled to sleep by the droning of truck engines. Thursday, left the truck stop at 7:45 am and continued south. Made a detour south of Jacksonville to pick up our mail in Green Cove Springs. Then continued on I-95, a relentlessly busy highway, with heavy truck traffic and some construction but no slow downs until well into Florida. No room at any of the nearby State Parks, so kept on going until Boynton Beach where we left the highway and found a Walmart (these are also RV-friendly) to park at. A dozen other RV's had the same idea. Spent a quiet night in their company. Couldn't avoid being reminded how congested and over-developed southeast Florida is, and still building. This morning, took the Florida Turnpike south to Florida City--worth the $5 in tolls for the decidedly diminished truck traffic. Stopped at the Visitor's Center at the entrance to the Everglades, and drove the 30+ miles to Flamingo, on the south coast. Registered at the campground, and were settled in by 2:30 pm. Biked in to the Flamingo Visitor's Center and did some initial exploring of the area. 941 miles traveled on this 2½-day journey.

 

Wednesday, February 9, 2005
in Flamingo Campground, Everglades National Park, FL

Enjoyed our stay in this lovely setting. It's the dry season, so mosquitoes are mostly tolerable. Saw lots of birds, including...... Evidently avian numbers are reduced to just 5% of what they were decades ago, after largely rebounding from the devastating plume-hunting period (for hat feathers) in the early 1900's. Development pressures from southeast Florida fight with the Everglades for fresh water thus reducing natural habitats, and intensive farming also adds nutrients and toxins to the runoff which trickle up the food chain--pruning breeding rates for many birds. Nonetheless, it's still a beautiful place although it's not clear how much longer this huge and globally significant and unique 50-mile wide, 100-mile long "River of Grass" will be able to survive. The park literature describes it as "on life support." We got our daily workout on bike and foot, and paddling on a 4-hour guided canoe trip along one of the many water trails from Nine-Mile Pond. The latter was definitely on our list of not-to-be missed outings, passing through mangrove tunnels, and by alligators, a crocodile, and many more water birds. We also got up close and personal with their endangered habitat--somehow we dumped ourselves out of our canoe into the drink. Don't ask how. Thankfully, the only damage was to camera and our dignity. Learning that in this busy season we'll have to make reservations at Florida State Parks, we (a bit reluctantly) planned the next month. Since we have no cell-phone service, we found ourselves making the 2½-mile round-trip bike ride to the one pay phone at Flamingo with remarkable frequency. We sure love our bikes.

Turkey vultures are silent campground pests, with a few black vulture hanger-ons. Red-bellied woodpeckers quite abundant too, churrrrrrrrrrring away while foraging on the palm trees. Thoughts while watching birds: Little ones (and some not so little) constantly on the alert, looking this way and that, up and down, searching for their own fodder while at the same time carefully dodging being eaten. Each kind of life feeds on other kinds of life. Many bird species exist in large flocks, with safety only in numbers. In the US we humans seem to be engaged in an all out political war between the "I's" and the "We's" without appreciation for the requirements of our own species' survival. And, we show little regard for other species' survival as we mindlessly accelerate our way along the path to extinction.

 

Friday, February 11, 2005
in Long Pine Key Campground, Everglades National Park, FL

Yesterday, we left Flamingo at on the heels of a gorgeous sunrise after emptying the holding tanks and filling up with water. Poor Clemmie is filthy! Last wash was Minneapolis, almost 3,000 miles ago. Drove to Rte 1, and then followed it south to Key Largo. Spent much of the day there at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, walking and biking around and then "camping out" in the shade of a tree for a while, watching a yellow-bellied sapsucker tapping away at eye-level just outside our window. Wished we had a functioning camera. Didn't spring for the glass-bottomed boat ride to the reef, given our wonderful snorkeling experiences in the Caribbean. The park campground being full, and with no chance of a walk-in spot, we drove back to Homestead to Walmart's in the afternoon. Found a place to get Clemmie washed and polished right next door, so took advantage of it to clean up our little home--she looks like new again. Two good-sized RV "camps" sprang up during the evening, one at each end of the Walmart parking lot. It certainly is a great convenience to be able to overnight there, when all else fails. Up early today, a windy and chilly morning, and did some provisioning before driving north on Rte 997 through field after field of vegetables, dozens of hunched over people picking something. Turned west onto the Tamiami Trail (Rte 42)--a road running on the northern edge of the National Park--beside one of the many canals that divert the water draining out of Lake Okeechobee from getting to the Everglades. Stopped in at the Everglades Shark Valley Visitor Center, but decided it was way to chilly to bike the Shark Valley loop road and we'd do that when we make our final exit from the Park. Instead, went to the nearby Miccosukee Indian Village and took a guided tour of the village and the museum. An outstanding $5 treat, don't miss it. Then backtracked to Homestead (incidentally replacing the camera) and came again into the Everglades to Long Pine campground, settling into our campsite at 2:00pm after putting the sun cover over the windshield. 199 miles since we left Flamingo 2 days ago .

 

Wednesday, February 16, 2005
in Long Pine Key Campground, Everglades National Park, FL

This is a beautiful secluded place. A bit chilly the first few days, thankful for our wonderful propane heating system. Great bike riding, getting our regulation 10-15 miles each day with ease--plus a bit of hiking. Great wildlife sightings on the Anhinga trail, including 6 Anhinga nests--4 with babies, and 2 sitting on eggs. See some pictures on the Everglades page of the Photo Album. This campground is dominated by long and leggy slash pines (not in our tree book, it has double needles 5"-9", big red scar-plates on the trunk bark, and symmetrical cones 4"-5" with minimal thorns.) We wake to the sounds of crow calls. One of these most intelligent and intrepid of birds managed to open the zipper on our bike pack. Other than that, it's mostly gray catbirds and a few cardinals, with the occasional glimpse of something small and secretive zipping from one hiding place to another--oh yes, and one eastern bluebird (female).

We've finally worked our way through the ocean-crossing supply of food from Callipygia. Glad to be all done with those cans of curried channa (chickpeas) from Trinidad. We have reverted to our boat-day routine of taking days about being responsible for meals (and whoever cooks, cleans up). We have many more cooking options now, however, between our terrific smart refrigerator/freezer (runs on electricity when available, and if not it runs on propane), microwave, efficient little propane stove and oven, and access to pretty much whatever ingredients we need. Food planning and preparation are fun and important parts of each day, as we attempt to create tasty, nutritious, and eye-pleasing plates. We've also instituted a once-a-week fasting day (juice, tea, and water only), hoping to slowly reduce our midriffs. Hope it lasts. Dawn and dusk are not quite the same as from the cockpit, but nonetheless spectacularly beautiful in their own right in places such as this. We're putting in a couple of hours work each day on our project, going slower than we first thought but it's developing nicely in its own way. Also spending time gradually updating the web site and reviewing and improving older sections (adding more pictures, and ensuring consistency of format and links.)

 

Thursday, February 17, 2005
in Myakka River State Park, near Sarasota, FL

A busy day. Left Long Pine Key just after first light, and drove to the Shark Valley Visitor Center. Since not enough time to bike the trail, we took the first tram for the guided tour. Well worth the trip. We took more photos, including one of a clutch of baby alligators and another Anhinga nest. From there we stopped by the Big Cypress Preserve Visitor Center, then drove to Corkscrew Swamp, the Audubon Society's centerpiece preserve. A fantastic place, though it was busy with people, and not a good time of day for bird watching. After completing the 2½-mile boardwalk around the swamp (once totally isolated, now surrounded by development) we hit the crowded interstate and a few traffic jams near Fort Myers where we stopped to pick up a few RV supplies and replace a dead turn indicator light. Then on towards Sarasota, arriving at Myakka River as dusk was falling. Very happy to find nice hot showers before a late supper. No showers at Long Pine Key, only bucket washes. 267 miles for the day.

 

Friday, February 18, 2005
in Oscar Scherer State Park, Osprey, FL

Joined "Yogi", a park volunteer, at the end of the "bird"walk on the Upper Lake at Myakka River State Park for some terrific early morning bird watching. Most fun was watching all the ospreys fishing, with one being chased by a bald eagle bent on snatching the osprey's catch. Then we took the park's Canopy Walk up a tower and along a suspension bridge at tree-top height, great views of this lovely big park. Marvelous to have our bikes to go from place to place, especially with level roadways. Left the campground at 10:45am and drove west towards Sarasota, stopping to provision on the way, before turning south on Rte 41 to Osprey where we found a laundromat and spent the lunch (2) hours doing a massive wash. Arrived at Oscar Scherer about 2:30pm, and backed into a gem of a campsite, completely private and 8' from a little river. Biked around the area, a true gem of a little campground, bequeathed to the state by the descendents of an industrial chemist. A nice easy 29-mile day.

 

Tuesday, February 22, 2005
at the KOA Fort Summit campground, Davenport, FL

Saturday morning we departed Oscar Scherer after breakfast to drive the Interstate towards Orlando. Slow going on I-4 going east, and a big construction mess at Rte 27, our exit. Picked our way through the orange construction barrels to find the campground entrance, where we arrived at 11:30am. 114 miles today. Parked in a field temporarily, made lunch, and checked out the campground until our site was ready. A cheek-by-jowl place (some would call it a grass parking lot) crammed tightly with happy holiday-making families. Nice hot showers, good laundry, pleasant swimming pool, and a great Internet connection, letting us catch up after a few weeks in the boonies. Sunday, we drove early to Disney World and parked Clemmie in the main (and mammoth) parking lot at the Transportation and Ticket Center, so that if we needed a respite from being amused we could come home for a bit to chill out. Turned out to be a great decision, which we repeated each day of our visit. By going early, we were assigned a parking spot near the main entrance where we cooked breakfast and planned our day while we waited for things to open. Spent Sunday at the Magic Kingdom, enjoying the view of Cinderella's Castle, picking our way through the crowds, and accessing several attractions/rides, etc. Yesterday, we toured Epcot, walking our legs off while visiting several attractions, culminating with a spectacular show by a team of youngsters from China, the Dragon Legend Acrobats. The group included a young girl who managed a series of body-boggling positions while balanced on one hand. Today, we visited the Disney-MGM Studios to be again highly entertained, and incidentally learn a little about the business of movie-making. Saw some exciting special effects, and strolled down Sunset Boulevard. An exhausting three days, (108 car miles for Clemmie) but wouldn't have missed this all-American happening. A new experience for one of us, who worked (hard?) at suspending judgment on the whole thing while the other unleashed it's child within and had a whale of a good time.

 

Thursday, February 24, 2005
in Payne's Prairie Preserve State Park, Micanopy FL

Wednesday morning we upped early and drove out of the jam-packed KOA campground onto I-4 heading east. Stop and go through the rush-hour traffic and construction melee for about 20 minutes until we cleared Orlando. Nearing the coast, we turned north on I-95 for a couple of interchanges before exiting into Holly Hill, where we filled up the gas tank (47 gallons this time) and then stopped in at Green's Camera Tech with the dunked camera to see if it could be repaired. No such luck--dunking is pretty much the end of the line for digitals--so we left it there for appropriate disposal. Thank goodness the card with our Everglades photos was intact. Thereafter, we meandered along Highway 40 and eventually turned into the Ocala National Forest at Juniper Springs. Wandered round that lovely little spot, watching the rippling waters of the pool and sandy river outlet carrying away the spring's daily eruption of 8 million gallons of pure fresh water from the great Florida Aquifer. Received the once over from a racoon. Then on through Ocala, and north on Hwy 441 to the Payne's Prairie Preserve. Plugged in at our spacious and private campsite near the bath-house (good showers) by mid-afternoon. We're increasingly impressed with the Florida State Park system. After settling in, we took down the bikes and went pedaling round this vast place, a sweet oasis for us and other wildlife in this once lovely state, booming from side to side with continued development. 185 miles for the day.

Last night brought our first Florida rain showers; water levels are low everywhere in this dry season. We explored the park on bike and foot yesterday morning, saw ospreys and cormorants fishing in the lake, eagles carrying sticks for nest-building, a swimming turtle coming up for air, and a group of four white-tailed deer stopping in the woods to examine us as we gawk at them. The prairie has a marveling and calming effect on us mountain-and-sea folks, it has an awesome magnificence that is new to us. Took another bike ride and walk along Cone's Dike Trail in the afternoon--this time we bagged 3 wild bison, 1 tortoise, several ?prairie? warblers, any number of robins, and the usual unidentifiable small birds. We are finding birding to be an absorbing hobby, trying to learn songs/calls, habits, habitats, and appearances. We are continually aware of how blessed we are in our lifestyle, and the absence of stress on our shoulders. Daily, we give thanks for it.

 

Friday, February 25, 2005
in Anastasia Island State Park, St. Augustine, FL

Left the Payne's Prairie campground at 7:30am. Made a short detour through the historic town of Micanopy (no diner, mostly antique shops) and then headed east on Rte 20 to Palatki, where we ate breakfast. Thereafter we made a short visit to Ravine Gardens State Park in Palatki, the site of Florida's annual Azalea Festival in March. Another overcast and occasionally rainy day. From Palatki we went north on Rte 17 to Green Cove Springs, to pick up our mail, and then east on Rte 16, south on Rte 13, and east again on Rte 241 to St. Augustine and across to its barrier island of Anastasia. Found ourselves allocated a nice but not very level campsite, which we were able to change for the adjacent one, more level. Took a walk around the campground and then to the beach--cold and windy, and deserted by all but the birds. Opened and went through our month's worth of mail, and found in it a picture of 6-month old great-niece Sophie Anastasia, named in honor of Bill's late mother, Anastasia. And here we are in Anastasia State Park! Today's trip - 117 miles.

 

Tuesday, March 1, 2005
in St. George Island State Park, Apalachicola, FL

After dumping the holding tanks on Saturday morning, we left the campground at Anastasia at 7:50am. Made our way onto I-95 going north, then I-295 to bypass Jacksonville, before taking I-10 traveling west towards the Florida panhandle. Left I-10 and headed south on Rte 53, then west on Rte 98. Made stops in Perry to fill up the gas tank, and by the roadside to eat lunch. A pretty drive, once we left the Interstate. First through a capacious pine tree farm/orchard, with rows of trees in "fields" of different growth stages, then along the gulf shore. Many beach-front houses sitting behind a few feet of white sandy beach drowning worn-down stumps of trees overtaken by gulf waters. Don't know that we'd build a house where the trees so clearly had lost the battle. Drove across the long causeway/bridge to St. George Island, and then east into the State Park. 308 miles for this leg . A stark and beautiful place. Very nice campground, with good-sized private sites. Filled with birds, and bird songs. Our site is close to the bath house with fine hot showers.

Saturday night, as forecast, the rain crept in and turned into a full-scale deluge by Sunday morning. We hunkered down, hoping it would lighten up so we could suit up and go for a walk or bike ride, but to no avail. We passed the time cooking, reading, doing a few chores, and enjoying our hobbies while it blew and dumped whole water outside until almost 3pm. By this time we'd given up hope of ever getting out; then hey presto, all of a sudden at 3:15pm the rain quit, the sun came out for about 45 minutes with the passage of the low/front, whereupon we dropped everything and took a brisk walk to the beach in this gorgeous barrier-island state park. Started the compilation of our annual land-cruising statistics. Are we--or should we say, one of us--data fiends, or what?

Monday morning we left the campsite at 8am and drove into Apalachicola for a 9am dentist appointment. Dentist recommendation secured from park ranger. One of us has had a niggling toothache for over 3 weeks, and experience tells us such maladies only get worse. As feared, 2 teeth need to be crowned. Explored Apalachicola, a neat little place. Once upon a time, second only to New Orleans in gulf-port importance. Now fading, and so far relying on it's place producing 90% of Florida's oysters. Seems to be becoming gentrified as a tourist spot, with painful destruction of the local work economy. Found nationally recognized photojournalist Richard Bickel showing his exquisite work. He came to Apalachicola on a job a decade ago, and was so captured by it that he made it his home. His photographs of one of America's last working waterfronts are poignant. Back to the dentist at 2pm for a 2-hr torture session to prepare the two failing teeth and install temporary caps. Adjusted our thinking about where we'll go from here given the need to stay in the area to complete the dental work. Made campground reservations to stay in the area until March 16th, when the permanent caps will be installed. Then back home to our lovely St. George Island campsite, to be entertained by a brown thrasher rummaging under the bushes beside Clemmie. And, the ubiquitous grackles creaking squeakily everywhere. 46 car miles for the day.

Today, sunny, blustery, and cool. Started soup in the crockpot, then took a morning bike ride before spending most of the day on assorted chores and planning our next month. Bagged a red-breasted merganser duck. While cruising, our options of where to go next were relatively few, restricted by our stamina, availability of decent anchorages, weather forecast, and slow boat speed. In this lifestyle, the continent is our oyster and our choices unlimited. We can be pretty much go anywhere, by any route, in a few days. Thus, planning involves maps (AAA US/Canadian atlas, individual state maps, DeLorme's detailed road atlas/gazetteer for each state, and our mapping software), plus the National Geographic guides to national parks, state parks, scenic byways, and hidden corners, the Park Service guide to national parks, the Bird Conservancy's "500 Most Important Bird Areas", a directory of each state's park system picked up as we enter the state, and various campground directories (AAA, Frommer's, Trailer Life, Woodall, Coleman's National Forest Guide, the Army Corps Guide, etc.) It took us ½ the day to whittle down our options and plan the next month. Now we have a bunch of phone calls to either make reservations, or find out they're not necessary. We're looking forward to getting to some less busy spots where we can simply wing it from day to day.

 

Sunday, March 6, 2005
in St. Joseph's Peninsula State Park, Port St. Joe, FL

Wednesday morning we upped and out of St. George Island at 8:30am, emptying the tanks at the dump station on the way. Drove across the bays (2 long bridges) to get to Apalachicola and then took Rte 98 to Port St. Joe. Looked around a bit, and then drove on to Panama City to provision and buy TurboTax and a Wi Fi card for our laptop. Back to Port St. Joe, and then south to Cape San Blas to turn up onto St. Joseph's Peninsula. Arrived at the campground at 4:30pm with 145 miles under our belt. Did a quick bike tour around and discovered a brand new shiny bath-house, heated no less. Thursday, rain arrived as forecast, so we had mostly an indoor day grappling with tax returns and other chores. Frustrated with the lack of access to the Internet, can't finish our taxes until we find it--TurboTax forms "are not complete yet" thank you. No cell phone service here, so feeling a bit isolated. But what a place to be isolated--the beach is ranked as the best in the US, and the park is just gorgeous. Bagged two tame deer, a pair of bluebirds and two downy woodpeckers before the rain started up. What a life!

Friday broke cold, clear, and sunny. Took early morning walk/bike ride. This place is gorgeous--reputed to be the best beach in the US, we can certainly see why. And inshore away from the dunes are scrub and pines and the shallow sheltered waters on the other side of the peninsula, equally beautiful. Plenty of biking and hiking opportunities. If we're in this quadrant of the U.S. again, we'll make it a point to come back to this--one of our most favorite spots to date. Socialized with Ann and George from Ontario, staying briefly on the campsite across the way from us. Saturday morning, we found loons wintering on the calm waters of Eagle Harbor, on the sheltered side of the peninsula. Also Bonaparte's Gulls among the pelicans. Deer hoof marks in the sand. Working hard at trying to train ear to distinguish different bird calls and songs. A wonderful sunny day, great for sitting reading on the beach and looking for pelican tracks in the white sand. Flat tire put one of the bikes out of commission, producing much teeth-gnashing from its owner. The other heroically took the wheel off, then apart, and after the usual upsets, successfully repaired the inner tube. Bless 'im. This morning, we moved from Gulf Shores CG to Shady Pines CG, which has bigger, more private sites--although not as close to the beach. Many sightings of yellow-rumped warblers flashing from bush to bush. We've learned to take the binoculars with us even on the short trip to the toilet. Beach time after lunch--this is truly a spectacular place. In late afternoon, we lit a fire, and watched a family (6) of raccoons sneaking through the woods across from our campsite.

 

Friday, March 11, 2005
in St. Joseph's Peninsula State Park, Port St. Joe, FL

Weatherwise, this began as a cold and cloudy week. After a lovely sunny day Monday, things went rapidly in the tank. Humungous thunderstorms during the night, as a cold front came through. Wednesday it never rose above 50 (deg F), so we donned our winter woollies and biked around or walked on the beach. Happy to spend the rest of the day snugged up inside Clemmie, and glad we're not tenting (as are half the people in this campground). Thursday dawned clear, breezy and cold so we biked to the north end of the State Park, and walked along the trail through the wilderness area, then back along the shore. At one point a flock of over 100 White Pelicans soared and wheeled overhead--a spectacular sight, but of course we didn't have the camera with us. After lunch, a walk on the beach watching the big surf. Today, a lovely sunny one, quite a bit warmer though still windy. Checked all of Clemmie's caulking, a periodic leak prevention precaution. No cracks that we can find. Completed our tax returns after updating TurboTax, and e-filed the forms with the IRS. Convenient phone with jack attached to one of the bath-houses. Long bike ride in the morning, and some breezy beach time in the afternoon. Good cooking, too, we're enjoying the oven and crockpot. Nonetheless, even though this is a lovely spot, we're ready to move on and looking forward to the even warmer weather forecast (?shorts?) for the weekend.

 

Tuesday, March 15, 2005
in Ochlockonee River State Park, Sopchoppy, FL

Up early Saturday to get underway. Alack and alas, climbed into the cab and started the engine--nothing but a dismal rattle. Oh woe is us, what can it be? Helpful ranger came by in truck, said sounds like dead battery (although there's enough power to roll windows up/down) or solenoid for the starter. Pulled out his jumper cables, hooked up, and started us fine. Fuel gauge on empty, though. Pulled forward, no smell of gasoline nor any sign of it leaking. Headed gingerly out of the campground and down the peninsula as the gas gauge gradually crept up to 3/4 full (what it should have been). Drove north on Rte 30 to Port St. Joe where we stopped at Advanced Auto Parts. They hauled out a battery-checking gizmo and checked engine battery, both house batteries, alternator, and starter solenoid. All's well. Something drained the battery while we were camped. What, we have no clue. Bought an MVP Portable Power Station as insurance. Went to the library in Port St. Joe to make a barcode copy, then to the Post Office for stamps, and to mail our TurboTax and Wi Fi adapter rebates. After all of that, back east on Rte 98 to Apalachicola to the hardware store (bike repair supplies and indoor/outdoor thermometer), lunch at The Hut, then Croom's laundromat (3 loads), Piggly Wiggly for provisions, the Bookstore, liquor store, and finally Cafe Con Leche (Internet Cafe) to test our new WiFi adapter. As you can see, it worked nicely--web site is all updated. Spoiled ourselves with some Cafe Americano and pieces of disgustatory chocolate cake while doing our Internet stuff. Finally left Apalachicola around 4pm, continuing east on Rte 98 through Eastpoint and Carabelle, then turned north on Rte 319 and into Ochlockonee River State Park just before 5pm. Set ourselves up at our campsite, and took a quick bike ride round the campground and to the river, before settling in for a slow evening. A long 91-mile day. A couple from Nova Scotia in the adjacent campsite have a Sea Eagle 330 inflatable kayak, just like ours. Said they liked it a lot, and that this is a great place to use it.

Sunday dawned clear and not too cold. Dickered around with where to place the indoor/outdoor thermometer and its sensor. Eventually put it by the door so you can see what you're getting into as you leave. A handy addition to our little home. Took an early walk around the campground, some bird is singing its little heart out--what a terrific and varied sweet-sounding repertoire it has; mostly it repeats everything twice. Back to study our bird song CDs, it sounds like a brown thrasher. Grab binoculars, head out again and follow the song. Eventually track the bird down. Indeed yes--it is a brown thrasher! What a coup, great excitement to add a new bird to aural recognition list. Today's cook is whipped from yesterday's exertions, so plans a meal of left-overs: broccoli quiche and apples for breakfast; chili and bananas for lunch; and lasagne, spinach and oranges for supper. Our middles are gradually shrinking, what with eating healthy, fasting (juice only) one day a week, and plenty of biking/hiking. Hope we can keep it up.

Monday, biked into Sopchoppy, small village 6 miles north on Ret 319. Paved bike lane (narrow shoulder) on side of highway made for pleasant pedaling. Good little hardware and grocery stores. Bought a few items, including a big steak--rare treat. Back home, one of us finished reorganizing the Photo Album (hope you like it) while the other went fishing. Nothing bit. Cooked steak on grill for supper. Yum. Today, cloudy and overcast. Rain and thunderstorms forecast for tonight and tomorrow. Early morning fishing trip yielded no breakfast catch, notwithstanding fish jumping and thumbing noses at fisherman. Started Clemmie's engine, no problem. Phew. Took a short bike ride, then walked in the woods and saw a white squirrel, then continued along the river for a while before turning indoors as the weather slowly withered. While not spectacular, this state park is a low-key little gem of a place. Birds are all over the place, and white-tailed deer wander around the campground. A cardinal clung onto the edge of our window checking us out at lunch time. We're loving this life style even more than we dreamed, not to mention our cozy little home-in-a-box. Took pictures inside, looking forward, and looking aft.

 

Wednesday, March 16, 2005
at St. Andrews State Park, Panama City Beach, FL

Not quite where we thought we'd be. Tuesday night, it poured it's little heart out. The noise of the rain on the roof got us up for good at 4:15am, after which we sat and watched the power go on and off several times as we sipped our coffee. Used the time to plan a trip up Rte 7 in Arkansas, the scenic byway section between Hot Springs and Harrison. Left sweet Ochlockonee River State Park shortly after 7:00am and drove back along Rte 98 to Apalachicola. Went to Cafe Con Leche (the Internet cafe) and used our new Wi Fi gizmo to update the website, check e-mail, etc. Then on to our 10:00am dental appointment. Oh dear. The caps have not arrived yet, they're still in California. Apologetic dental receptionist got on the phone and arranged to have them expedited. Rescheduled the appointment for today at 1:00pm. Clearly we have to can our trip to Blackwater River State Park. Moved into flexible mode, drove to Panama City, did some shopping, and around 2:00pm found an empty campsite here, which we booked for 2 nights. 111 miles today. Took down the bikes (the rain finally stopped) and rode around this very pretty state park. Another lovely beach, and great birding, especially at Alligator Pond. Glad we're not tenting, some of those looked like they were about to float off into the sea after all the recent rain. Made numerous phone calls tracking down campgrounds so as to make reservations for our stops along Rte 7 on our Arkansas scenic byway trip.

Setting up here we again found water in "the basement", the rear external locker which leaked badly during the drenching at St. George Island. Made an appointment with the Winnebago dealer in Baton Rouge to locate and (hopefully) fix the problem first thing next Monday. Must say Winnebago has been outstandingly easy to deal with. Must also say that Florida state parks are A-1 terrific. Feels like a very busy day. Started out as our usual fasting Wednesday, but by 5pm decided to bag it and have happy hour. We earned it.

Today, wavering between EST (Apalachicola) and CST (here), rose at 6:30am EST. Unhooked the umbilical cords (electricity and water) and left our bikes and the campground at 7:45am. Arrived in Apalachicola around 10:00am, after one stop along the way. Back to Cafe Con Leche for more Internet time. Then to the John Gorrie State Park Museum--he, a young doctor who came to Apalachicola circa 1830, invented a primitive air-conditioner (blowing air over ice) to aid the suffering of those with "swamp" diseases (yellow fever and malaria). Learned quite a bit about the history of this lovely area. From the ranger, learned about Papa Joe's restaurant for outstanding seafood and went there for lunch. Fried oysters out of this world. Then back to the dentist for 1:00pm appointment, ready to apologize for the oysters. In front of surgery is a huge ancient live oak tree, replete with ferns on its branches. A tribute to longevity, what changes it must have seen. Oh dear, the caps have not arrived yet. Staff more upset than we, sent out APB for Fed X truck; the errant package finally showed up at 3:00pm (EST). Sufferer spent an hour in the chair and emerged with teeth good for another quarter century. Impressed with atmosphere in dentist's office, best dental Karma we've found. If ever we have a tooth problem again, we'll wish we were here. Back along Rte 98 to Panama City, and this campground again, arriving around 4:00pm CST. 142 miles today. Gloomy afternoon, so snugged down for the evening and didn't much beyond planning tomorrow.

We have spent time thinking and discussing our project. We have not forgotten it. We've decided that the first stage is to get the content "up" on this website, so we're going to start working in that direction. Having spent some time on the road, and talking to people in campgrounds, that seems like a more realistic first step. We are on a different wave length from the people we're meeting. Check the "What's New" button of the Home Page to see how we're progressing.

 

Saturday, March 19, 2005
at Alabama Port RV Park, Alabama Port, AL

Thursday, we woke at 3 am, our 3rd night in a row we're up and awake to de-tick ourselves. So far, between us, we brought 6 ticks from Ochlockonee River. Sneaky little blighters. Dozed 'till dawn, then did a load of laundry and showered in nice heated bath house at St. Andrews. Could happily have stayed there longer. Many campsites are on the waterfront, just loverly. Cool night, sunny morning, busy birdy place. Took a pleasant bike ride around Alligator Pond and to the beach. A quick Internet hit (free line) at the Visitor Center--sorry to find out that Hoover (Susan and Henry's pet of five years, a toulouse goose) got eaten by a bobcat. Dumped the tanks and departed around 10:50am (CST though our bodies thought it was EST.) Drove west along Rte 98 through beach towns to Destin--once pretty now overwhelmed by the malling of America--then north on Rte 293, west on Rtes 20 and 85. Bridge over Mobile Bay blocked with an accident, then a tow truck speeding along the shoulder hit the side and blocked the shoulder too. Inched our way across, spotting progress ahead and birds in the bay through the binoculars. Took 1½ hours to get to the other side. Getting dusky so decided to stop at Walmart's near Tillman's Corner. Snuggled up with the trailer trucks in the rear of the parking lot, and away from the din of the Hollywood Video across the street. Tractor-trailers' purring lulled us to sleep.

This morning, up early--parking lot still full. People must shop all night. Headed south on Rte 193 to Dauphin (pronounced "Dolphin") Island, barrier island, one of the US' most important birding areas (IBAs). Ate breakfast at the Cow and Bean, underneath the water tower. Toured around the island following the route suggested in the Fish and Wildlife Service's outstanding brochure of Alabama Birding spots. Started at the Shell Mound, three firsts: black-and-white warbler creeping on tree; prothonotary warbler on bush; and a few cedar waxwings. Then to the Audubon sanctuary, and walked our legs off through its trails and boardwalks, and to the gulf beach. Found another prothonotary warbler by the side of the swamp, dead as a little door nail. Noted a huge magnolia, its trunk riddled with row after row of drill-holes from long-gone sapsuckers. Then to Fort Gaines and, taking tip from another birder we met at the Audubon sanctuary, examined the ditchy moats outside the fort. Found two more firsts in the moat/ditch: a sora; and a solitary sandpiper. We'll have to create a birding section of this website. Apologies to the non-birding readers for the amount of birding info in this log. Made and ate lunch in the parking lot of the Fort, very scenic view of Mobile Bay. From there we went to the island's little airport, and scanned the marshes for birds. Only animal life we saw were humans casting shrimp nets. Then we headed west along the main island backbone road out of the treed area to the developed western end. All the trees and shrubs have been removed to make way for edge to edge (gulf to bay) stilt (?still?)-standing beach houses. Highest elevation probably 4' above sea level on a good day. Not much protection from mother nature. Hurricane damage much in earnest--no wonder. Why would you bulldoze the natural protection and build so many houses in such an exposed place? Amazingly still, some of the damaged ones are being repaired--only postponing the inevitable death by hurricane at a later date. Went to the point where the road ended, nose-diving into the sand. Beyond it, piles of stacked lumber attested to the houses that had once been built beyond that point. Returned back to the mainland for the night at this convenient roadside RV park at the intersection of Rtes 193 and 188. 52 miles today.

 

Sunday, March 20, 2005
at Tickfaw State Park, Springfield, LA

This morning, up and away at 6:20am. Too early for one of us who wasn't ready, not yet properly awake--bit of friction over that. Got over it. Ambled along Rte 188 to Rte 90 into Mississippi. Through Pascagoula to the east end of Biloxi. Decided to check out one of the many casinos on the waterfront. Ate greasy buffet breakfast and pulled some one-arm bandits. Net loss of $8.25 not counting breakfast. Don't need to do that again. Followed scenic Rte 90 through Biloxi, among the ancient live oaks along the beautiful white gulf sands to Bay St. Louis, then took Rte 607 to I-10 at the eastbound Mississippi Welcome Center. Made our usual pickup of state highway map and state park information. Then west on I-10 to the Louisiana Welcome Center. Near lunchtime, decided to get off I-10 and go the 15 miles to Tickfaw and stay here for the afternoon and night. 170 miles today. This is a sweet little gem of a park, only 5 years old, not yet showing up on our DeLorme Louisiana gazetteer. Louisiana honors our Golden Age passport, campsite (with electricity) cost us only $6 for the night. Very nice campground, great heated bath-house, terrific nature center, nice trails. A birdy place. Spotted a pileated woodpecker, carolina wrens, and (a first) two hermit thrushes. After lunch, spent a lovely afternoon biking, walking, and wallowing in the natural environment. Park is in the swamps/bayous around the Tickfaw river. Sent a postcard with picture of the park to DeLorme, advising them of its existence.

 

Tuesday, March 22, 2005
at Lake Bruin State Park, St. Joseph, LA

Yesterday we left Tickfaw at dawn. Picked our way through side roads to I-12, then drove west in building traffic to Baton Rouge. Arrived at Miller's RV Center soon after 7am. Source of leak identified as the cover over the fresh water tank intake. Intake pulled out and reinstalled with fresh caulk. Piece of decorative molding on side of refrigerator also re-glued. Sensor for black water tank tested, needs to be replaced. Again, excellent warranty service through the Winnebago network. Left the dealer around 10:30am, back on I-12 a few exits, and made a detour to a branch of Barnes and Noble booksellers. Our first bookstore in two months! Got away without doing too much damage to our wallets, and headed north on I-110 to Rte 61, the eastern side of the Great River Road. Once we cleared some industrial (chemical) plants, the scenery improved and the road began to roll. Turned into a very pleasant parkway, with little traffic. Took a detour to go through the lovely little town of Woodville, Mississippi. If we ever need somewhere warm to settle, this could be it. Stopped in Natchez for lunch and our first view of the Mississippi River. Crossed back into Louisiana and north on Rte 65, the western side of the Road. Detoured in Feriday to Rte 586 to skirt two oxbow lakes, and wound our way through the cotton fields to the town of St. Joseph, and then to Lake Bruin State Park, arriving at 4:20pm. 178 miles today. A racket in the trees led our binoculars to a red-headed woodpecker, a cardinal, and several blue jays all giving some squirrel a bad time. Later, a carolina wren called and called and called for someone, late coming home. This is a very birdy place. Watched the watery sun go down through the cypress trees rising from the lake's waters.

Today, woke at 5am to the sound of rain and thunder. Strong front went through, tornado watches to the south of us. Thankful for the weather band on our radio. Then the skies cleared and temperature dropped and came a beautiful, if windy, day. Checked and found the basement leak is no more, thank goodness. Rode our bikes up over the levee to look at the Mississippi and then butted heads with the wind as we pedaled toward St. Joseph between field after field of woody cut-off cotton stalks, a rivule of water between each built-up row of plants. Cased the town (took about 5 minutes) and found a decent little supermarket. Ate lunch of outstanding gumbo and home-made corn bread at Ken's Corner (gas station at the intersection of Rtes 604 and 606.) Then home in short order, this time blown along with the wind behind. Much bird activity in the campground, red-headed woodpeckers and blue jays all over the place. Watched a lively tufted titmouse bouncing up and down on the campground road trying to impress its mate.

 

Friday, March 25, 2005
at Lake Chicot State Park, Lake Village, AR

Left Lake Bruin Wednesday morning at 7:45am after dumping the holding tanks. Continued north along Rte 65, then crossed the river to Vicksburg, Mississippi. Stopped in at the Visitors' Center and then took the driving tour around this hilly historic city. Clemmie squeaked through some narrow spots, under a few low branches, and up some steep little hills as we wound our way past various old buildings. Then to the National Military Battlefield to see an informative video about the civil war and the taking of Vicksburg in 1864 after a siege by Union troops, thus giving the north control of the crucial Mississippi. From Vicksburg, we drove north on the east of the river up Rte 61 to Rte 463, when we followed Great River Road signs. This took us 20 miles along the top of the levee, bumping our way across cattle guards, encountering no other vehicles, and looking down on assorted ponds and wetlands out of sight for the most part of the Mississippi River. We learned that the great flood of 1927 forced construction of what is today the longest continuous levee in the world, 640 miles. Altogether the levees beside the Mississippi and its tributaries are longer than the Great Wall of China. Back onto Rte 61, then Rte 1, to Rolling Fork, where we got lost trying to find Rte 16. After going round and round this little town, we went back to Rte 1 and crossed out of Mississippi into Arkansas to the Visitor Center just south of Lake Village, on the side of Lake Chicot a large ox-bow formed when the river changed its course some 500 years back. Stopped at the local supermarket for a few provisions, and arrived at the campground at 5:15pm. Registered at the Park Visitor Center, backed into our site, checked it for level, and plugged in. 240 miles, felt like a long day.

Thankful to have a few days in the same place, hopping along on consecutive day trips gets to be wearing pretty quick. Still trying to figure out a balance between driving, sightseeing, and just plain old being at home in one place. Took some time to get acquainted with this park, primarily occupied by local people with trailers and fishing skiffs. Feeling a little homesick for Florida's wonderful state park system. Time to adjust to a different culture. Seems like we left spring in Louisiana, the campground sits in a mature pecan grove whose trees are bare of leaf, and forecast are for cold (low 40's) nights.

Yesterday we rose with the sun (it comes up early here, just west of the Central time meridian) and mostly took the day off, wandering/biking around the campground, reading and doing our hobbies. Moved to a different campsite in the afternoon after two large families complete with yapping dogs arrived and settled into (and spilled over) the adjacent slot with trucks, bikes, tents, trailer, boat and canvas sun shelter. Much easier for us to move than for them, and we both need more space. Today, we biked along the levee hunting ducks in the borrow pits, from which was dug the material used to build the levee. Not many ducks, but a plethora of cows, calves, horses, and foals grazing on the grassy embankments. Cows didn't pay us much attention except for a menacing black bull which approached to examine (discourage?) us. Pat wished she hadn't worn her orange shirt. Horses did a mini-stampede ahead of us, the ranks growing to 60-odd as others along the way were swept up with them.  After 6 miles, we left the levee and returned along the paved road (Rte 144) pedaling into the inevitable wind blowing through the fields of cotton stubble. Happy not to be caught below one of the crop-dusting planes that buzz and squirt low overhead each morning. A warm day, temperatures in the high 70's. Pecan trees are sprouting buds, spring is catching up with us.

 

 

Monday, March 28, 2005
at Lake Ouachita State Park, north of Hot Springs, AR

Saturday, warmer on rising. Did a load of laundry in the machines conveniently placed near the Lake Chicot bath house. Ominous weather forecast, scary cold front expected later that day with the potential for baseball-sized hail and tornados. Seems like the campground was emptying--or was it our imagination? Kept a careful ear on our weather radio. By 2pm, it looked like we were right along the frontal line running from Texas through Louisiana to Mississippi where all this nastiness was expected to unfold. Decided to high-tail it outta there and head north. Left the campground near 3:00 and headed through Pine Bluffs towards Little Rock. Around 5:30pm, we got caught in some torrential rain, with hail hammering on poor Clemmie's roof. Camped out for the night just south of Little Rock in a Walmart's parking lot since we couldn't find any other nearby options. We were the only RV, didn't like it much.

Yesterday morning, we left Walmart's at first light and headed for Burns Park in North Little Rock to hang out there until Martha's plane arrived at noon. Dagnabbit, we found a pretty good campground there, how did we miss it? Didn't check all our resources. After collecting Martha from the airport (an hour late) and in still more rain we drove east through Hot Springs to this pretty park, arriving around 3:00pm. Enjoyed reconnecting with her, and planned some sight-seeing. 250 miles since Lake Chicot.

Today, cold outside (39F) on wakening to a gorgeous misty morning. Left the campground before 9am and drove to Hot Springs. Found parking at the town's little visitor center, and walked along the main street to the National Park Visitor Center in the beautifully restored Fordyce Bath House. Decided to get "the treatment" at the only remaining active bath house, Buckstaffs. Treatment consisted of individual hot whirlpool bath (aka fanny massage), loofah rub down by attendant, individual sitz bath (in case you have hemorrh....s), hot towel treatment, shower, and 20-minute massage. After all this hard work we ate lunch in downtown restaurant, then walked around the historic area, finding the only remaining visible hot spring. Didn't mind our better instincts and sampled fried pickles at Maggie's Pickle Shop--an Arkansas delicacy. Be sure to miss it, every bit as bad as it sounds. Got back to our campsite at Lake Ouachita to find someone had snitched our hose and pressure regulator, and that the rangers were about to give our site to someone else. Got that straightened out, but didn't recover hose etc. 36 car miles today.

 

Tuesday, March 29, 2005
at Lake Dardanelle State Park, Russellville, AR

Left lovely Lake Ouachita after breakfast and began a trip north up Rte 7 to Jasper, a notable National Geographic Scenic Drive. Stopped at Ron Coleman's Crystal Mines to examine samples (and wares) of amazing quartz and other semi-precious stones. You can go dig for your own, but we didn't, preferring to buy the fruits of others' labor. Pretty cheap too. Stopped at the Ranger Station on entry to Ouachita National Forest and walked the lovely little interpretive trail. Ate lunch near the Army Corps of Engineer dam that created Lake Nimrod, and again at the dam across the mighty Arkansas River that created Lake Dardanelle. Saw half a dozen white pelicans resting on their migration north to the arctic. Stopped in Russellville for ice cream. Feels like we're on vacation. Arrived at our campsite just in time for a pre-sunset happy hour --a beautiful spot, surrounded on three sides by water. We can see the neighborhood nuclear power plant cooling tower just across the lake. 94 miles today.

 

Wednesday, March 30, 2005
at the Tyler Bend campground, Buffalo National River, AR

Much warmer last night. We rose with the birds--among them a blue bird and some coots. We'll remember Lake Dardanelle. It was a gorgeous spot and hopefully we can come back for longer some other time. Left the campground around 8:15am and headed through Russellville, stopping at the Smoke House to load up on ham, sausage, bacon, etc. Drove through the Ozarks, gently winding and hilly road, spring hasn't quite made it yet. Stopped at the Triple Oak Gift Shop near the village of Pelsor and talked to the proprietors. They spend the winter making craft items, quilts, carvings etc., and the summer selling them. Ate lunch at the Cliff House restaurant, overlooking the hills. Split another Arkansas specialty; Company's Coming Pie. You can pass that one up too. Arrived in the small town of Jasper, where we divided. One of us stayed in town to check out all the little shops (and quilt makings) while the other two drove to look at the natural bridge near Alum Cove. Then to the Ranger Station and on to this campground for the night, the only RV-accessible one along the Buffalo National River. Lucky for us, the bath house opened for the season today. 142 miles today.

 

Thursday, March 31, 2005
at Petit Jean State Park, Morrillton, AR

We rose early this morning, and hiked along the trail part way along the Buffalo River. Heard a new bird song, melodious minor key ending in a pretty trill. Tracked it down - field sparrow. Found our way east to Rte 65, and to Marshall where we ate breakfast at the Sunset Restaurant. Bought our (final) Arkansas delicacy, chocolate roll. Pass that one by, too, if you see it. After breakfast, we drove south on Rte 65 until Rte 9, and then followed Rte 9 through Morrilton then turned west on Rte 154 to this State Park in time for lunch. 95 miles today. This is not a terrific campground, part of it under renovation. Busy Rte 154 through the middle has no bike lane. Hiking trails reputed to be awesome, however. Martha hiked to the Cedar Falls overlook, reported it to be quite beautiful although the parking area is a sea of mud (under construction). The rest of us took gentle bike ride and crashed. All this sightseeing is hard work.

Saturday, April 2, 2005
at Village Creek State Park, Wynne, AR

Yesterday, a wet morning. We left Petit Jean a bit before 9:00am after dumping the holding tanks. We made our way to I-40 and drove east towards Little Rock. Found the Clinton Presidential Library and Park near the River Market, plenty of RV-happy parking. Visited the Library, well worth the admission. Then ate lunch at a nearby restaurant and walked around the downtown area including a visit to the Museum of Arkansas. Took Martha to the airport, said goodbye, and continued east on I-40 then north at Forrest City along Rte 284 to this, the largest, Arkansas State Park arriving just after 5:00pm. Drove around the camping areas, and found a pleasant level campsite in the North area. 181 miles today. Renovations are underway at the West campground area, and in the South area (where the ranger tried to send us) the campsites are all slopey. Being level is our first priority in site selection. Pretty is #2, private #3, and near bath house #4. Learned the hard way that our next door neighbors have two (large, barking) dogs. We seem to have hopped ahead of spring again, not many buds here.

Today, we're hanging loose. Sightseeing has wore us out. We need some "home" time. Sick of listening to barking dogs though. Biked around a bit, and hiked along one of the trails. This area is apparently on a unique geologic feature, called Crowley's ridge. Sand, clay, and silt deposits squeezed in and built up between the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers over the last 20 million years. No rock base, as is the case in the Ozarks and most of the rest of Arkansas. Consequently, a different plant community and interesting erosion features. Noted a bunch of dark-eyed junco's picking in the grass near the trees.

 

Saturday, April 9, 2005
at T.O. Fuller State Park, Memphis, TN

Last Sunday morning, a new bird song by the creek behind us in Village Creek State Park. Tracked it down with the binoculars--a distinctive song from a little thrushy-looking bird, but small with a distinctive eye stripe. Bobs its tail as it steps along its singing branch. Listened to the CDs, and paged through the bird book. A new find--a Louisiana waterthrush, a ground warbler. Left the campground soon after 9:00am and drove south to I-40, then east towards Memphis. At the junction with I-55, left the highway for the Flying-J Truck Stop, where we filled up with gasoline and propane. Went to the Blue Beacon Truck Wash next door to Flying J and got Clemmie cleaned and pressed. She's a new woman! Crossed the Mississippi into Tennessee and drove to the Memphis Visitor Center by the river. Then followed the attendant's directions to this State Park. The ranger station is closed on weekends, so we drove around the nearly empty campground and set up housekeeping in a very pretty spot next to the woods. Made lunch, and explored a little. This is a very birdy place. Mid afternoon, we were busy watching a pair of Carolina wrens near our campsite until we're distracted by a flock of robins (30 at least) feeding on worms, bugs, seeds, etc all round us. Then all of a sudden the robins flee en masse--except one. Right in front of us not 20' away there's a red-shouldered hawk with the poor laggard struggling in its talons on the ground. Had the binoculars handy enough to get a good look, but couldn't haul the camera out quick enough for a pix before the hawk left, carrying dinner home in its claws. Found the spot later, marked by blood and feathers. Emphasized that it sure takes life to feed life.

Monday, clean up day. Did two loads of laundry at the bath house's 2-load laundromat. Biked to the Visitor Center to register ourselves in the campground. Heard owls hooting in the woods. Made arrangements to get Clemmie serviced later this week. Prepared for a visit from Ralph, who's traveling through from Alabama on his way to Missouri towing a new (pre-owned) sailboat he's added to his inventory. Pat cut Bill's hair and he trimmed his own beard. Looks 10 years younger. Robins are back, as well as half a dozen northern flickers pecking at the insect life on the ground. Caught a pileated woodpecker's scarlet-crested head ding-donging at the base of a nearby tree. Ralph arrived complete with boat late in the evening, stayed up beyond our bed-time. Good to see him again, he was a real stalwart and support to us in our cruising period. Ralph left Tuesday morning, on the heels of an ugly weather forecast--nasty weather system due to arrive Wednesday, with the potential for "damaging hail and tornados". We followed Ralph out of the campground and spent much of the day doing errands--groceries and wine, haircut for Pat, miscellaneous shopping, Post Office, and a trip to Outdoors Inc for some bike and camping gear. Waved to Elvis Presley's airplane which was parked at the side of Elvis Presley Boulevard across from Graceland. Waved at it too. Weather arrived in the wee hours yesterday morning. Decided to postpone our downtown Memphis sightseeing until later. Between downpour events, biked to the Visitor Center and extended our stay here until tomorrow. The much-touted Mississippi River Museum on Mud Island opens for the season Saturday (today), and its high on our list of must-see items in Memphis. Tornado watch Wednesday afternoon until 9pm. John, the Campground Host came by to alert us to the weather warning and regaled us with some severe weather stories in the Memphis area. Thursday, took Clemmie to America RV in Olive Branch, just across the Mississippi line, to get the black water tank level sensor replaced. No can do, try again later. Yesterday, arrived at MHC Ford for the 10,000-mile truck servicing (oil change, alignment, tire rotation, etc.) early (7am). Sat and read/twiddled our thumbs while Clemmie was being attended to. Delay at place where tire work done. Finally left at 5pm, happy thanks to MHC service manager who nullified the charges due to the wait. Nice touch!

Today, went to downtown Memphis to sightsee. Breakfasted at Cafe Francisco, which has free WiFi Internet access. Dagnabbit, something amiss with Dreamweaver--couldn't update the website. Visited the remarkable and extremely well done National Civil Rights Museum, in the former Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King was shot. Then explored the Beale Street area and the Rock and Soul Museum. Excellent and highly educational. Plan to visit the Mississippi Museum tomorrow on our way north from Memphis. 98 miles on 3 run-around days while we've been camped here. We're learning to use Clemmie as a car.

 

Sunday, April 10, 2005
at Meeman Shelby State Park, Millington, TN

Pleasant warm morning. Removed rain covers from the bikes in preparation for hanging them on Clemmie's behind. They'd been covered for 4 days against rain for one, and because we were busy running around for three. Oh dear, some hard-working bird has built a nest on one of the bikes. Quick work, spherical type nest with hole in the top. Wondered if it belonged to the Carolina wren who has graciously allowed us to camp in his territory and sings to us every morning. Consulted bird books, whose number is growing by leaps and bounds. No, can't be his, this species apparently use cavities for nests and don't build. No idea who it belonged to, so couldn't apologize for demolishing it. Sorry about that, but at least there are no eggs in it. [Ed NOTE: Learned later that yes, Carolina wrens will build nest in anything remotely suggesting a dark hole. It probably did belong to that sweet-singing guy and his girl.]

Eventually departed T.O. Fuller about 8:00am and drove to the Memphis Visitor Center where we parked Clemmie. Very convenient. Walked south along the Mississippi in the very pleasant Riverside Park. Spring has definitely sprung, dogwoods and wild pansies are out. Visited the Mississippi River Museum on Mud Island, continued our education about this part of the world--its history and impact. Should have done this before yesterday's two museums, the quality of this one paled by comparison. Then back to Cafe Francisco to try to update the website again. No luck. looks like our webmaster screwed up Dreamweaver when she tried to make it maintain both the website on the Internet host and the backup on the laptop's external hard drive simultaneously. Operator error. Ouch.

Left Memphis and drove north to Meeman-Shelby State Park. Picked a campsite in the virtually empty campground and settled down after making lunch. A mere 31 miles today. We're buried in the woods near the edge of the Chickasaw Bluffs, an eons-ago edge of the river which has now moved a couple of miles west. We're the only people in our loop of the campground, only 4 others camper in the whole place. Slightly eerie. Hang out for the afternoon in our underwear--just like old times on sweet Callipygia. Wonder nostalgically where she is now. Go to bed and sleep soundly--just us, the trees, the birds, the stars, and the fireflies. Quite wonderful.

 

Saturday, April 16, 2005
at Reelfoot Lake State Park, South Campground, Tiptonville, TN

Last Monday morning's weather forecast was not good. Rain, heavy at times and thunderstorms. Picked our way out of Meeman-Shelby and got back onto Rte 51 going north after getting lost a couple of times. Rain started around 9:30am, but even so we decided to take the 20-mile detour to the Fort Pillow State Historical site. On arrival, we drove the tortuous road to and through its empty primitive campground, finding only one level campsite. In view of the pouring rain, we decided not to stay there. Went to the interpretive center and learned about the Civil War battle (or massacre of Union troops depending who you ask) that took place at Fort Pillow. Then, we drove back the 20 miles to Rte 51 and the village of Henning, Alex Hailey's birthplace, before continuing north through Ripley to Dyersburg. Still raining. Ate a fat-food lunch at a local eatery in the historic downtown area. Then found the Community College and hunted down a much-touted display of all the duck species that migrate through the area. Quite underwhelming. One of those wet days when we ate too much and saw too little.

From Dyersburg we took Rte 78 to Tiptonville, turned east on Rte 21, and arrived at the Reelfoot Lake State Park Visitor Center soon after 2pm. Sign on the door says open daily 8am to 4pm, but it's closed. We proceeded to the campground and found the campground host to check in. This place is definitely not deserted, lots of other campers, although still plenty of empty slots. Decided to ante up the extra ($2/day) fee for a waterfront campsite, and then settled in to enjoy our lovely view even in the rain. 155 miles for the day. Much entertainment provided by 4 randy mallards wrestling with each other--and one poor female who looks like she's sick of the lot of them.

Tuesday broke dry, and the day turned out partly sunny. We have cellphone coverage here, a nice bonus. Did a few chores and got technical help from Macromedia to solve the Dreamweaver website update problem. If you can read this, it worked. Went for a bit of a bike ride and learned more about the area. Reelfoot Lake formed during a series of massive earthquakes centered at New Madrid, MO, in the winter of 1811-1812. Biggest earthquakes in US history. For a while the Mississippi ran backwards eventually filling the lake which is now teeming with fish. It looks like the campers here are pretty much a dungaree-wearing fishing crowd, hauling boats and aging trailers. Some appear to be semi-permanent residents. Rain began again Tuesday afternoon and lasted through most of Wednesday keeping us housebound until ousted (rain not us) early Thursday by a high pressure system bringing cool sunny weather. We took advantage of the nice weather and spent the day circumnavigating Reelfoot Lake (70 car miles), stopping several times along the way. Found some lovely spots in the Wildlife Preserve and saw an indigo bunting. On return we realized we were camping in the territory belonging to a great blue heron, a bunch of coots, a redwinged blackbird, and some ducks. At happy hour a female with five ducklings settled down to rest not 10' away from our door, gathered her babies under her wings, and took a 20-minute nap (with a few peeks). This is a lovely place.

Friday we biked east along Rte 22 to the Visitor Center, examined the exhibits and walked along the board walk among the cypress knees. We learned that they help the underwater roots of these remarkable trees to breathe. Injured or abandoned baby birds are cared for by the rangers at the Center. At the moment these include a pair of young bald eagles, a peregrine falcon, a 2-month old great horned owl, and a month-old barred owl. Stopped in at Calhoun Boats, where the 4th generation owner continues to make a special boat that can navigate in the shallows of Reelfoot Lake. The campground has filled to overflowing for the weekend, no more empty slots. Almost all from Tennessee or nearby Missouri, lots of kids. Casual conversation with many during the week revealed that we're a different kind of cat, but all sharing in the delight of this place. Today we biked back to the Visitor Center to go on a 3-hour guided canoe trip through the cypress swamps on the west side of the lake, past several beaver lodges, and across a lily-filled pond. Different than the Everglades, but nearly as spectacular. In the evening one of us biked around the campground in the after dinner dusk, and received a bite on her tush from an overly aggressive black Labrador tied to a big fifth wheel trailer. No response from the owner except to turn out the lights. Reported the incident to the campground host, who'll pass it up to the ranger. Evidently not the first bite handed out by this aggressive dog in the long-stay section of the campground. This is a lovely place to visit, but should be avoided on weekends. The campsites here are too small to accommodate the many weekend campers who bring a car, a truck, a boat trailer, as well as their large living trailer, their pets, and in some cases a couple of tents. The place is clearly overloaded. Hope the ducks and ducklings are safely elsewhere.

 

Tuesday, April 19, 2005
at Reelfoot Lake State Park, Air Park Campground, Phillippy, TN

Sunday morning we left the Reelfoot Lake south campground around 7:15am, dumped the tanks and headed west on Rte 22. Stopped for a fat food breakfast at the Lakeside Restaurant, and then traveled north on Rte 78. Turned left at Phillippy Church and crossed the ancient rusty and somewhat crumply but apparently still-in-use railroad track and arrived at the road running just below the levee. Then north to cross the Kentucky state line, where the road turned to dirt for a while. We found a bald eagle's nest, with a sitting parent and four 6-week-old young-uns, in a tree just across the levee. What a binocular treat, but too far away for a decent photo even after climbing up onto the levee. Kept on ambling along beside the levee (road became paved again) and eventually arrived in Hickman, KY. Watched one of the last working Mississippi ferries arrive from Dorena, MO. Decided we'd run the risk of banging Clemmie's bottom on the ramp onto the ferry, so we won't go that way. Explored Hickman, not much here except a short block of old downtown, a Coast Guard station, and a grain silo. Turned back and returned to Tennessee on Rte 78, and came into this westernmost segment of Reelfoot Lake State Park. Found a nice shady campsite in this much quieter place and settled in before making lunch. 64 miles. A hot day. Plenty of birds singing, hope they're watching out for those cowbirds which seem to be the campground pests here. Go for a hike in the woods, avoiding the ubiquitous poison ivy, in the heat of the afternoon; then watched another couple arrive and settle in a few campsites away. One 40' motorhome, one car, one car trailer, two bikes, one pickup truck, one boat, one boat trailer, and a 99-hp outboard motor. Over an hour before they're all set up. Seems like a lot of axles and engines for 2 people.

Monday, another lovely warm day. Biked through the adjacent Black Bayou Wildlife Management Area, a good paved road runs along the swamps replete with snakes, beaver, coots, etc. A teeny little blue-gray gnatcatcher stopped by on a nearby branch to chirp hello at supper time. We've ordered a replacement laptop for our 5-year old Winbook, it has finally bitten the dust. Waiting here until replacement arrives, hopefully by mid week.

 

Tuesday, April 19, 2005
at Columbus Belmont State Park, Columbus, KY

This morning lovely, another warm sunny day at Reelfoot. Went for a long bike ride through the wildlife preserve (a different part) and part of Rte 78. Great workout. At lunch time, eagle-eyes Bill spotted a UPS truck at the Air Park Inn office. Has the new laptop arrived? Yes indeedy. Collected it, checked the boxed contents, grabbed a quick lunch, and got Clemmie ready to travel. We're outta there!

Left the Air Park Campground soon after 1:00pm, and drove to Hickman, KY, again. Took the more direct route, not along the levee. Hickman is bigger then we thought, quite a nice little town, the east side seems quite prosperous. Continued on these lovely Kentucky byways towards Columbia. Drove through Cayce (home of Cayce Jones) where we turned north on Rte 239. Stopped at some road works for about 15 minutes, where we were entertained by the young man directing traffic who filled us in with the political machinations sourrounding job assignments among KY DOT road crews. Learned about KY blue laws--most counties are dry, a few have wet towns in them, and a very few counties are wet. Turned east on Rte 123 to find the grocery store in Clinton for a few items, then took Rte 58 to Columbus and this state park with a pretty campground high on the bluffs overlooking the Mississippi. Yet another Civil War historical site. 49 miles today. We continue to be quite amazed with how much we're enjoying this life style. Our connection to the natural world is much more obvious to us, and constantly reminds us that even our most insignificant actions have consequences beyond ourselves--a fact that tended to get lost in our prior lives until such time as something went wrong.

 

Wednesday, April 20, 2005
at Fort Massac State Park, Metropolis, IL

Up early this morning, excited to begin setting up the new laptop (a Compaq). We managed to share the other one for the week until it arrived, but it definitely makes life easier if we each have our own. Our little dinette table switches easily back and forth from being the office to being the dining room. We continue to be delighted with Clemmie's interior layout and spacious storage areas, she's so complete and self-sufficient. We guess you can be in any house and always find things to wish for; but in Clemmie there's no wish room or need. Seems to mean we're confronted with our having no need to wish for..... And so all that leaves time for is being happy with what we've got. Our frequent happy attacks remind us how truly blessed we are to be able to do this.

Left Columbus Belmont shortly before 8:00am heading towards Paducah. This part of south-western Kentucky is lovely, rolling green fields, pretty little towns. Not sure what to expect in Paducah, except that it is the Quilting Capital of the USA. Stopped at the Kentucky Welcome Center just off I-24 and learned that the annual Quilt Show and Contest begins in Paducah today, with 40,000 (??really) people expected over the 4-day show. Regardless, we easily found street parking on Broadway a few blocks up from the river (Ohio, that is). A very pretty town, with its historic downtown area redeveloped over the past 15 years. It seems to be thriving on it with a zillion antique and quilting shops. Accepted bottles of water with little tags on them from some red-shirted volunteers. Visited some of the numerous vendor displays at the Quilt Show in the Executive (convention) Center. Then toured the Museum of the American Quilter's Society: some remarkable work on display including very old quilts and some truly beautiful if more modern fabric art. Wandered round the riverfront area enjoying the murals painted on the wall built on top of the levee. All of this quilting exposure has triggered a latent itch in one of us to start some kind of a craft project--she did a bit of quilting 35 years ago, and thinks a needlework project might be just the ticket for this RV life. Bought a couple of quilting how-to books at the Museum shop and then went hotfoot (per Museum shop staff) to Hancocks of Paducah, a renowned--and jam-packed--fabric and quilting supply store. Bought a few supplies, enough to get started on a small project and find out if this hobby will "take." Got sucked into the nearby Kentucky Oaks Mall and bought some computer supplies and a few books (our usual downfall). Left Paducah in early afternoon and crossed the Ohio River into Illinois, stopping at the Illinois Welcome Center to get our usual official state highway map and state park directory. Learned that Illinois parks are almost entirely first-come first--served, with no reservation system. Finished our day's trip (58 miles) with the short drive towards Metropolis and into this state park--which had one vacant campsite, fortunately for us.

 

Friday, April 22, 2005
at the Alexander County Horshoe Lake Conservation Area Campground, Olive Branch, IL

Thursday morning broke cool, but still clear. Left Fort Massac campground at 7:30am after dumping the holding tanks on the way out. Our level indicators are no longer giving proper readings, so we're guessing that so long as we dump once a week we'll have no problem. After our abortive visit to the RV dealer in Memphis, we've decided to make a little detour when we get to Iowa and go to the Winnebago manufacturing plant. We understand we can get service work done there, and also take a tour of the plant.

On the advice of our neighbor at Fort Massac, we decided to follow the Ohio River Scenic Byway to Cairo, on the Illinois side of the river. It was a fascinating drive, with several stops. We first stopped in Joppa to take a good look at this mighty river from the same spot as an unfortunate young mother who left her two toddlers in the car but neglected to put it in park. We made subsequent detours to Lock and Dam #53 and then to the Olmstead Lock and Dam project. From Olmstead we followed the Scenic Byway to historic Cairo, at the confluence where the Ohio joins the Mississippi. We crossed briefly into Missouri to fill up the gas tank (saving 12¢/gallon) then came right back to Illinois to check out Cairo (pronounced Karo as in syrup). First stop was Fort Defiance, at the foot of the peninsula between the two rivers where Lewis and Clark spent a week in 1803 surveying the area as they first set foot into the Louisiana territory. Found several tugs/barges parked along the riverside taking a break on both Ohio and Mississipp sides of the confluence. Apparently half the continent drains its water past here, and more freight goes by than goes through the Panama Canal. Kind of boggles the mind. Then back into Cairo to the old Customs House, now a remarkable though struggling non-profit museum held together by a diminishing group of aging local volunteers steeped in the town's history. From its heydey population as a bustling riverside port of over 20,000, Cairo has suffered major flooding, endured severe racial tribulations, and slowly fallen to its knees--home now to just over 3,000 souls. After the museum, we visited the beautiful historical library (donating our we're-done-with-these pile of books) and ate lunch at Nonny's. Without doubt the best fish sandwich and the biggest hamburger we've ever put our mouths round. We wrapped up our visit to the town by driving north along the Washington St boulevard to look at some of the fabulous houses built during the good years. If you're ever near southern Illinois, don't miss a visit to Cairo. In its own way we found it more compelling than lovely Paducah.

From Cairo we drove north on Rte 3 and into the Horseshoe Lake Conservation Area. Two campgrounds, we picked the one with showers. Campground host and only one other camper here, so we pretty much have this lovely spot to ourselves. Decided to stay two nights, and take a stay-at-home day before moving on. We're feeling our way to a comfortable balance of travellin' and stayin' at home. By late afternoon the sky to the west is darkening ominously. Turned our radio on, to the trusty weather band (what a gift). Oh dear, severe weather watch and we're right in the path of it. Batten down the hatches and wait. Watch a movie on our new laptop. Wind picks up around 8:30pm, thunder rumbles in the distance, and temperature begins to drop, 1° per minute for a little while. Phenomenal lightning display, high winds, and pretty good rain for about an hour. Quite a show. Thankfully no hail. After it's over we tuck in for the night, only to awaken to a repeat performance about 1:30am.

This morning, skies are clear, wind is up, and weather is cool. Forecast is for clouding over in the afternoon, with high winds and rain as a strong cold front finally clears the area. Last night's display was the pre-frontal warning. Decided to take advantage of the nice morning weather and go for our usual bikeride, there's plenty of good flat road around here. Biked past the swamps into Olive Branch to check out the village. On the way, one of us turned round to check on a dog that moseyed up to him as we rode by and oh dear, bicycle tripped on the road edge. Bike and rider bit the dust and banged themselves up pretty good. So we didn't prolong the ride but came back home instead to apply triple antibiotic to the scrapes and scratches. Enjoyed the rest of our day in this lovely quiet spot. Tomorrow's forecast is COLD!

 

Sunday,April 24, 2005
at Hawn State Park, Millers, MO

Left Horshoe Lake yesterday morning by 7:00am, lovely spot but we're ready to move on. Think homo sapiens is a nomadic animal, at least wanderlust seems to be well rooted in us two. Think we missed the migrating waterfowl, rumor has it they're hundreds of miles to the north. Found terrific little local diner in Olive Branch for breakfast, best home fries ever. Sliced thin, and well browned. This life is full of impressive little pleasures. Small basement leak has returned, fortunately the wet from the rain is caught in the small sink beneath the outside shower faucets. We drove north on Route 3 and took a little detour to the village of Thebes to look at the river, then west on Rte 146 to cross the river and into Cape Girardeau, Illinois. Beginning to dawn on us that it was the French who opened up the country west of the Mississippi not the Brits. Still a cold, windy, and overcast day. Drove around the historic downtown area, very pretty, big concrete levee with murals on it. Headed out William Street to the modern west side of town, and found a bustling typical American shopping scene, replete with malls, shopping centers, traffic, etc. Found our way to Barnes and Nobles and got a book "fix" and a supermarket for a few provisions. Then north on Rte 177 to Trail of Tears State Park to visit the Interpretive Center commemorating all the Indians who died (and survived) the long trek to Oklahoma after being forcibly displaced by then President Andrew Jackson. On leaving, astonished to find a huge factory (Proctor and Gamble, paper diapers) out in the middle of nowhere. Then to I-55 north to Rte 38 where we hung a left and drove west to this State Park arriving around 4pm. Nice campground. It being the weekend we had made a reservation, though there were still a few empty spots. The park seemed very well kept, good facilities (ie bath house, heated, plenty of hot water--on such treats does our worldview hang) down in a valley beside little Pickle Creek. Missouri earmarks 1¢ of each sales tax dollar to its parks and conservation efforts.

This morning, again cold but blue sky showing. We spent a couple of hours figuring out where the heck we go from here, we have so many resources recommending so many neat/cool spots to visit it's hard to choose. The cook for the day started chicken gumbo in the crockpot and we put on our hiking footware to get some exercise alongside lovely Pickle Creek. Hi today of 58°, and chilly in the wind. Back home for a late lunch and watch the campground exodus, the weekend is over for all these families. We have the place to ourselves by supper time, realize we were the only out-of-state vehicle in the place.

 

Tuesday, April 26, 2005
in the City Park, Hermann, MO

Yesterday morning it was 34° when we woke. Thank goodness for our twin heating systems (propane fired central heating for a big boost, and little ceramic electric heater to maintain the temperature). Our little home is cozy even in the worst of weathers. Left Hawn State Park behind at 7:50am and drove east on Rte 38 to Ste. Genevieve, the oldest European settlement west of the Mississippi. Drove along the river to the ferry landing, through a gate in the flood wall. Found the flood stake, showing how high the waters got in '93 (August 1993, a 500-year flood event) before the wall was built. An interesting little town, with its own winery and many historic buildings. Drove along the main street, oops the railrood bridge over it only clears 9' (We think we're 11' 6"). We're adept at reading bridge heights, and noting the bites that have been taken out of some of them. Don't want to have poor Clemmie eat concrete. Turn around and make a detour to get round it. We've learned that, prior to prohibition, Missouri was the second largest wine producing state. No longer, but the land along the Missouri river is again covered with small wineries. Next we took Rte 100 going west on the south of the river, heading for Hermann. Found a Goodwill on the edge of the town of Washington where we were able to recycle a bunch of items we no longer need. Found the Hermannhof Winery on our way into the little German town of Hermann, population 2,700. Parked at the winery, our first, and went to check it out (look through the cellars, taste a few wines, spend a little money). Then to the Visitor Center/Chamber of Commerce, to get directions to the town's park. Found two other RVs there, picked our spot and settled in just before the rain started around 3:00pm. 155 miles today. Around 4pm, we put on our rain gear and hiked up the hill to Stone Hill Winery (built in 1869) overlooking the town. Took the guided tour of the winery's ancient cellars carved out of the limestone, with walls still black-moldy from the prohibition convert'em-to-mushroom-growing era. Spent a little more money.

Warmer this morning (40°) but overcast. Rode our bikes to the town's bike shop for minor servicing. Did our end-of-the-month financial stuff on the Internet at the Visitor's Center, using the computer nicely set up for travellers. Fortified ourselves with coffee and pastry at the adjacent bakery, before beginning a walking tour of Hermann, a most appealing little place. Started in the old German School Museum, through the downtown streets, and up and down its hilly residential areas checking out the views. Through the lovely courthouse to the riverside area, and then back up the hill to eat a German sampler platter late lunch at the Stonehill Winery's excellent restaurant. Picked up our bikes and came home, our feet all wore out. The other RVs have left, so we have the place to ourselves. The town park is terrific. It sits on the inside edge of a little creek with a busy little 2-lane road across the creek. The firehouse (complete with 4 antique pumpers, kept in mint condition for annual shows) is on another side, and residential streets form the remainder. The park, including camping and picnic area, bathhouse, baseball field, basketball court and playground, is encircled by a path which attracts numerous morning walkers doing laps. The bathhouse has no locks, no security, no need. At supper time, the all-volunteer fire department came out en-masse to practice rescue work, for our entertainment it seemed. First, amid gales of laughter, they created a wreck situation by pushing an old car and truck into each other. Then they brought out their little firetruck and ambulance, donned their uniforms, and proceeded to cut apart the vehicles with an acetylene torch to remove the volunteer victim. As darkness fell, the truck sprouted a spotlight-on-a-pole at each corner illuminating the park so the firemen/women could complete their practice session.

 

Tuesday, May 3, 2005
at the St. Louis RV Park, St. Louis, MO

Last Wednesday morning we bade Hermann goodbye. A terrific little town, we fell in love with it. Left in cold, windy and overcast conditions around 8am. We crossed the Missouri on Rte 19's narrow old bridge, breathing in to pass a big truck, and turned east onto Rte 94. Up and down, round and about, through pretty green farm country, then onto rich bottom land with newly sprouting fields. On the flats, the road paralleled bits of the Katy Trial, a 225-mile state-park rail trail along the former MKT railway line. We passed a few wineries, but didn't stop, and then detoured into the little town of Augusta where we parked at one of the Katy Trail's 18 trailheads. Took the bikes down and biked along the trail for 6 miles to the village of Matson. On the way back made a quick detour up a hilly side road to check out the Silver Hill winery. Lunch in Augusta in the beer garden at the Augusta Brewing Company, a microbrewery. Pish tush, they don't sell beer in cans/bottles and we're outta it on Clemmie. We do like our liquor (in moderation, of course.) After lunch, east to St. Louis and into the traffic of the Interstate highway system. Time to leave the lovely bucolic Missouri countryside. From I-64/Rte 40 took exit 38C onto Jefferson Avenue, and drove north. After two blocks, a truck pulls alongside, rolls down its window and the driver shouts "Going to the RV Park?" We say "yes", and he says "follow me, I'm the owner." So we do for a few more blocks and turn into what is basically a big fenced-in parking lot, but right downtown St. Louis. 88 miles today (not counting bike miles). Meet Lynn, George's (the owner) wife and check in. Owners live in their RV next to the Park office. Very friendly place, terrific bathhouse, great laundry, right on the bus line. Wireless Internet access in the privacy of our very own home--yeah! Try to update the website. Dagnabbit, Solar Host is doing a system migration and can't get to it. Maybe later. Eat supper and cruise around the Internet for a while, what a treat.

Thursday, yet another cold gloomy showery one. Forget what the sun looks like. Decided we'd start our sightseeing with the Arch. Put on our rain gear and went to catch bus #04 across the street to ride through downtown. Got off at Broadway and Market, and walked the two blocks to the Riverfront park, and down the steps at the bottom of the Gateway Arch, not really expecting much. Well, were we ever wrong. You must not miss this, our expectations were blown through the roof. Make a trip to St. Louis. Do not stop, do not pass Go (and do not go to jail either). The Arch is a national park, the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial. Underground is a fabulous museum, an excellent shop, two movie theaters, and access to the tram to ride up inside the Arch to see out through little slits in the top section. We watched the outstanding IMax National Geographic Film of Lewis and Clark's exploration, and another equally outstanding movie about the construction of the Arch, an epic in its own right. We rode the tram to the top, and looked at St. Louis from above, and then across the Mississippi into Illinois. Bought a bunch of books about Lewis and Clark's expedition, the construction of the transcontinental railroad, and Indian history. Are we ever expanding our understanding of the history of this great land as we travel it. It's in your face at every stop, can't help but become much more real to us. We think about how different life is today compared to then. Its clear that we have no idea what human life will be like 200 years from now. All of our problems (social, political, environmental, energy) will lead to responses we can't even imagine. Billions of people, each making individual decisions every day, will take us who knows where. The more we learn, the more we find out how little we know; we don't have a clue.

Ate a late light lunch near the Arch, then visited the old historic courthouse (another National Park item) and walked into the courtroom where the final Dred Scott decision was handed down shortly before the Civil War erupted. Back home for supper--yeah, our webite host seems to be back up and we can find our website on the Internet. Would never have dreamed that we'd love "camping" in a friggin' city parking lot, but we feel like we'll stay here a while longer.

Friday, cold and gloomy again, more rain in the afternoon. One of us spent the day at home doing laundry, household chores, updating the website, then unsuccessfully trying to upload the changes to the Internet. Host server can't do ftp yet, so no can do. Notification email of server change indicated changes to ftp parameters--they looked like greek to her, she'll need some technical help. And technical help seem to be busy. Dagnabit. Pulled out and polished her patience and finished configuring new laptop with security software, windows updates, etc., etc. instead. The other went of into the dreariness, walked down Market Street to Union Station, bought a day transportation pass, rode the Metro, and then rode a few buses getting the hang of the transportation system and visiting a couple of used bookstores. Extended our stay here through next Wednesday. Called Winnebago in Forest City, IA to confirm that we can get a few fixes done to Clemmie. Yes, but for walk-ins, it's a 5-7 day wait. Happy for us, we've learned to go with the flow. Who knows what we'll find as we hang around in Iowa. But we may have to cut short our trip round the top of Lake Superior, and make a bee line for Ontario through the Upper Peninsula (or even, heaven help us, through Chicago) to get to Toronto by mid-June.

Saturday, what is this? Blue sky in the morning? Decide to go visit Cahokia Mounds, across the river. Oh dear. The bus that goes there doesn't run on weekends--and the Mounds are closed on Monday and Tuesday. We don't want to miss this, so decide to rent a car. Ride bus downtown to Enterprise, rent car, and drive to the very well-done Cahokia Mounds Interpretive Center. Watch movie about Cahokia, the oldest/biggest Indian city north of Mexico, peak population 20,000 and occupied from about 700 AD to 1400 AD. Go through the museum, and climb the 100' up to the top of Monks Mound, the largest. Its base is bigger than the pyramids. Later, take advantage of our wheels to turn into consumers for a little while. Found a shopping center with Borders Books, Whole Foods, REI, Circuit City, and the Organizing Place. Spent a few bucks though managed to restrain ourselves fairly well. Drive home could have been through any city in the developed world, it seemed. There is such a sameness about the malls, shops, and strip commercial areas.

Sunday, another bright sunny day, but still cool. Checked out Forest Park, near St. Louis University. Bigger than Central Park, contains zoo, museums, birding forest, bike trails. A road race getting started, so didn't stay. Then to historic St. Charles on the Missouri River. the point from which Lewis and Clark left on their grand exploration back in 1804. Monday, again cool and sunny--getting to be a habit. Yesterday, reorganized our storage. Clemmie has great storage space, but it needs regular tending and weeding so we can easily reach what we want, when we want it. And, we have been shopping. Went walking in this really nice City, and cleaned house and spent time trying to resolve the ftp problem with Solar Host whose support/help line says only "We're sorry, we're having technical difficulties. Please be patient."

Finally, this morning ftp access to the website works! Yippee. Synchronize the local version of the websit (which lives on one of the laptops and is where all the changes are made) with the version at Solar Host. A lot of changes have been made. Oh dear, when we check on the Internet, the changes haven't been propagated yet. Hopefully Solar Host's migration woes will soon all be resolved. If you can read this, they have been. Walked the few short blocks to visit the Scott Joplin Historic House, and learn about his career and time in St. Louis.

Every day is an adventure, and we have a hard time keeping track of time, where we've been, and what happened. Having the logs and photos to remind us definitely helps. You thought we were doing this for you guys? Worng. We do it for us! What a way to live--we would never have guessed how well we'd take to it when we decided to give up sweet Callipygia. Wonder where, and how, she is now.

 

Wednesday, May 4, 2005
Town Campground, Pleasant Hill, IL

Said goodbye to St. Louis RV Park around 8:20am, after one load of laundry. Found our way north east through St. Louis filling the gas tank on the way to cross first the Missouri and then the Mississippi Rivers into Alton, IL. Turned north along Route 100, a spectacularly beautiful drive right on the edge of the river, under tall limestone bluffs. Detoured into the little town of Elsah, untouched by "progress" or so it seemed. Risked Clemmie on three narrow little bridges (5 tons) on the main street, on the basis that neither axle is more than 5 tons, and the bridges weren't long enough to have both axles on at the same time. Then to the town of Grafton at the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers. Watched the little ferry cross to Missouri sliding against the current just north of a little island sitting 'twixt both watercourses. Another detour into Pere Marquette State Park, up to the top of the bluffs. Not much of a view, alas. We sure are view junkies these days. At the town of Kampsville, we crossed the Illinois and proceeded northwest on Rte 96 towards the Mississippi. Having (this time) checked our resources, we were on the lookout in the little town of Pleas